Yoke-along: it sounds like yokel long if you say it fast enough. So wow, has it really been a month since I've checked in here? I have about a million craft projects to report on, but first I have a WIP and an informal poll, if you'll humor me. Behold, the WIP:
This is the first part of Norah Gaughan's Orange Pop, which I'm knitting as part of an informal yoke-along with Chawne. So far I'm madly in love with the pattern, but I do have a question. As per Amy Herzog's sage advice I selected my size by taking my bust measurement right under my armpits, rather than over the fullest part of my bust. I think for my body this is a particularly good move because I have a fairly large bust and supersmall shoulders, so this way they can kind of meet in the middle. So I'm knitting the size 36. As you can see from my picture above, what I have so far is a little loose (like the sample sweater is on the lovely Mary-Heather). Now since the fullest part of my bust is 40" around (sorry - is it immodest to post one's bust measurements on the internet? Oh who cares - I want a sweater that fits and I don't particularly feel ashamed about that or my body.) I was thinking I'd add some vertical bust darts (again, a la Amy Herzog). But now that I see the way the sweater is fitting so far, I'm a little afraid that added width in the bust will just make it extra baggy in that region, which won't be a great look for me. Thoughts, crafters? I calculated the difference between the width of my front and back to be 1.75 inches, so it's not like they would be totally cavernous darts - just a few extra sts...? But do vertical bust darts just tend to work best on sweaters with zero-negative ease?
I think if the darts are well placed they will not be “saggy” and they might help. But I’m really not sure.
If you do vertical bust darts start just where the bottom of your bust starts. That should stop any sagging. The other thing you could do is add horizontal bust darts through short row shaping to stop the feint of your sweater riding up. Also remember that knitting is a very stretchy fabric and may just stretch over your bust.
At the risk of being equally immodest – I’m a 34 DDD and I just finished a sweater which I knit to an actual “armpit” measurement of 36″, but did add the horizontal bust darts (three short rows) to the front to keep the hemline falling level all around. It still isn’t tight, just fits. I’d worry it might get too big if you go for vertical adjustments with a positive ease garment. (If you’d like, you can check out the finished sweater on ravelry, http://www.ravelry.com/projects/colourknits/rayonnant-pullover) Hope that helps! I love you’re color choices, BTW!
-Crystal
I’m not an expert (though I am a fellow small shoulders/relatively large busted gal) and I agree with those above who have recommended doing a couple short rows instead of a bust dart. I have found bust darts kind of stiff in the past and I don’t think that would work with a looser fitting sweater. I think horizontal short rows will give you a little extra fabric for your bust without the sharpness of a dart.